Ferrets weren’t always the easy going (haha) little guys we see today. They used to serve a very important purpose to their owners. Its not completely clear why we domesticated the ferret, but we are fairly certain it had something to do with hunting.

As we know, ferrets are most likely domesticated Polecats. We think they were domesticated over 2500 years ago. Its claimed that the Egyptians did it first (aren’t they the first for everything?). Although, there isn’t any physical evidence currently.

We all know that our long, lean ferrets get themselves into trouble. They used to be used for chasing rodents, rabbits and moles from underground. They’ve even been used to control rabbit plagues.

Ferrets were introduced here in America in the 17th history and were used through the start of World War 2 to protect grain stores from rodents.

Ferrets have other (unfortunate) jobs as well. They are used as an animal model of human influenza. We all know that when we have the flu, to stay away from our beloved ferrets since they catch it so easily. Ferrets have been used for other areas of research as well because they share many anatomical and physiological features with humans.

It’ll be interesting to know, what history will uncover about our little weasels. They sure have been here a long time.

I’m definitely starting to feel the chill here in Ohio. And I’ve started making some adjustments to my schedule since my windows are closed and the heat is on. Here are some things you can make sure you do so that your ferret(s) have a very cozy, comfortable winter.

Cleaning:

• Your windows are closed! You’re going to need to clean your cage a lot more often to avoid those ferret-y odors. Wiping down the cage and cleaning toys and bedding on a weekly basis will also help with odor.  Scoop your litter daily (as you always should) and replace litter once a week. If you have multiple ferrets, it will probably help to replace the litter a couple times of week.
• Ferrets do a lot better in the cold than we do, so don’t worry about what you set your thermostat at. They will be romping around as always. But still provide them lots of blankets, hammocks and what-not so they can snuggle in if they do get a little chilly.

Grooming:

• Just like us, ferrets get dry skin in the winter. A great tip is to keep a humidifier near their cage or rub them down with a very small amount of olive oil or liquid vitamin E. You can also use a skin and coat supplement like FerreTone.

Outside Play:

• I know first hand that ferrets LOVE to play in the snow. If you take them outside, do it in short intervals so that they don’t get too cold!

Fun winter tip? I bring the snow INSIDE for the ferrets to play. I bring in a few buckets of snow to keep in the bathtub so they can have hours of fun. Clean up is a breeze! Just wait for it to melt and open up the drain!

Sometimes first aid kits are overlooked – but they are very important to keep around not only for yourself, but for your ferrets (and other pets). We’ve come up with a simple list of items that you should have on hand at all times. These items should fit into a plastic shoe box very easily for storage.

• Veterinarian’s phone numbers

• Scissors (small and curved to avoid accidental injuries)

• Nail clippers (always ensure you do NOT cut into the quick of their nails, which is their vein)

• Styptic powder/bar of soap (necessary to stop the bleeding if you do accidentally cut into the quick of their nail while clipping)

• Tweezers (for removal of foreign bodies on their skin or in their coat)

• Ice cream/lollipop sticks (very useful if you need to apply a splint)

• Antiseptic (to clean any cut or abrasion)

• Antibiotic Powder/gel/lotion (apply to wounds after thorough cleaning to ward off possible infections)

• Children’s Benadryl (in case they should happen to get stung by a bee or wasp and consult your vet for proper dosage before hand)

• Cotton balls (for wound cleaning and applying ointments)

• Bandages (small size to cover wounds to to secure splints)

• Surgical gauze (padding for wounds and to stop/slow bleeding)

• Hydrogen Peroxide (flush dirt from wounds and counter infections

• Alcohol (aids in tick removal)

• Sodium bicarbonate (apply wet compresses to help reduce swelling)

• Pedialyte (aids in rehydration)

• Karo Syrup (Helps bring ferret out of a seizure from insulinoma)

• Preparation-H (relief for prolapsed rectums)

• Laxatone/petromalt (aids in dislodging hairballs)

• Syringe (for measuring and administering liquid medications and food)

• Ideal size for medicine is 1cc and 3cc, for food 35cc.

Also – Drs. Foster & Smith carry a wonderful first aid kit, click here to check it out.

If you don’t have a dig box – you should get one. Your ferrets will love you for it! Its almost an essential… at least they will tell you so anyway.

If you already have a dig box – maybe look into switching it up! To give them something new :).

We asked on our Twitter and Facebook what everyone is using in their dig boxes and here are the top 5!

1. Shredded Cardboard — You can do this yourself and your can get a bag of it at your local pet store.
2. Long Grain Rice — This seems to be a favorite. Not only is a fun, but it helps soak up oils and moisture off your ferrets skin – leaving them feeling fresh! (Not that they care)
3. Corn Starch Packing Peanuts — Totally fun and totally safe for the occasional nibble.
4. Ping Pong Balls — Fun for them and an easy clean up for you!
5. Sand — Recommended for outdoor use – give them a fun sandbox to play in

Let us know in the comment section if you have any other fun ideas!

We’re excited to introduce to a new film that we have just learned about! I think its something all us ferret lovers have been waiting for! So here’s the deets and how you can help!

Behind the Film

The film is written by Alison Parker & David B. Beleznay, two filmmakers from Vancouver, BC, Canada.  Alison Parker will direct, and Shawn Seifert is the Director of Photography.

About the Film

Struggling to cope with the recent death of his mother, young Jake Tyler retreats from his family and the world at large. After being involved in a violent fight with some older boys at school, he winds up in the principal’s office with his father who is told that Jake might benefit from professional help. Unfortunately, Jake’s father has been unable to help himself through the loss of his wife. When not neglecting his son and daughter as a result, he’s furious with them. Jesse (Jake’s sister) is so fed up with her selfish father that she moves out of the house but not without leaving her pet ferret, Jasper, to keep her brother company.

Jake & Jasper become fast friends as the two develop a strong bond. Yet just as this companionship seems on the verge of prying Jake from his shell, his father threatens to take Jasper away. With the thought of losing his best pal, Jake decides to run away from home and the two get lost in a nearby forest. Then when darkness falls Jake & Jasper not only lose each other in the woods, they nearly lose their lives.

Why the Film is Being Made

I decided to make the film “Jake & Jasper: A Ferret Tale” for a few reasons.  One, I have always been a fan of films that show the bond between animals and humans.  There is something so magical about finding love and understanding from a creature that you can’t even speak to.  Two, ferrets have always been portrayed in a negative way in the media.  They are often shown as being aggressive, dangerous, and sometimes even being used as a weapon.  This is really ridiculous and has to stop.  I don’t want everyone to go out and start buying ferrets without researching the proper care and responsibility it takes to own one – only to change the perception people have of what ferrets are.  This film will share with the world the joy a ferret can bring to a family, in a story that will surely warm your heart.  -Alison Parker

A Message from Alison on How You Can HELP!

• Skunk – $1000
• Raccoon – $1000
• Rabbit – $400
• Fawn – $4500
• Black Wolf – $1000
• Owl – $1000
• Bats – $1000
• Frogs – $100

(The above rates include the cost of the animal wranglers)

Regardless of how much money we raise, this film will get made.  I’m paying for it out of my own pocket and using largely my own equipment.  It will be shot on the Red MX Camera.  We begin filming in August.  Any money raised will go directly to filling our forest scenes with animals.  The more money we raise, the more animals we can have.  The more animals we have, the more magical and special it will be.

Please help make this dream a reality.  On the right, you will see different levels of donations you can make.  Each level has its own unique ‘perk’.  We are giving away things like DVD’s, autographed posters, and the chance to have your name listed in the end credits under “Special Thanks” or even “Executive Producer”.

Click here to find out more and to find out how you can help!
Twitter – Facebook

Its exciting to get the motivation to begin making upgrades and changes to Growing Up Ferret! I’m going to be rolling out new features in the month of May.

The first feature I really wanted to do is a fully mobile website. Well I did that and more! We’re still working out a few kinks here and there, but its nice to be able to check on the website mobile. On top of that, I made sure if you bookmark our website on your Android or iPhone device, you’re able to then add a shortcut to your home screen that has a nice beautiful icon! Then you can get to us fast and on the move.

We’re really wanting to integrate our rescues list and give you the same features our full site has, but be able to click and call, ect.

So, what’s coming up next on Growing Up Ferret? Fan photo galleries! You asked- we’re doing it. You’ll be able to upload your ferret photos to our website. If we get enough people interacting, we’ll up the fun and add photo contests and PRIZES! Oh yes, I went there, PRIZES!

But that’s not all that’s rolling out this month- but you’ll have to wait for the next blog posts!

Remember, follow us on Twitter and Facebook for fast updates!

What is Hypoglycemia? Long story short – low blood sugar. Why is sugar important? The brain and muscles rely on blood sugar (glucose) for energy. Severe and untreated Hypoglycemia is life-threatening. It will cause weakness and mental confusion, progressing to seizures and coma.

3 Levels of Hypoglycemia is found in ferrets:

1. Insulin producing pancreatic tumor
2. Deprived of proper nutrition
3. Antibiotics can cause Hypoglycemia, for example amoxicillin

There may be 3 different causes of Hypoglycemia, but the symptoms will all remain the same. At first, they may be hard to notice, especially if you’re ferret is new. But it is important to monitor your ferrets health each day.

• Confused daze
• Moves slowly and inactive
• Hind legs slip sideways and have no grip as they walk
• Salivate and paw at their mouths
• Loss of consciousness
• Seizure

If you’re ferret has any of the above symptoms seek veterinary care immediately.

You can treat Hypoglycemia yourself, once you and your vet are for sure that’s the case for your ferret. You’ll start to learn the signs and when you’re ferret is having an attack. When you start to notice the symptoms, there are several things you can do:

1. Give your ferret concentrated sugar, such as corn syrup or liquid honey
2. Follow it by a high protein and fatty snack (baby food style chicken or turkey would be perfect)

Hypoglycemia can be scary, but is 100% treatable. Remember, always consult your Veterinarian before assuming your ferret has Hypoglycemia.

This is a huge discussion in the ferret community. Cage or no cage, do’s and don’ts! Well hopefully the following points will be something that everyone can agree on.

Do I Need a Cage!

My opinion, absolutely, of some sort!  Ferrets need to have a safe place to be when they cannot be supervised for their own safety. No ferret should be left alone wondering your home. Not only is harder to ferret proof your home for them to be lose for 24 hours a day, its harder to “potty-train” them, just imagine, every corner of your home as a potty place.

If you’re dead set on having lots of space for your ferret, it would be wise to place them in a ferret-safe room where you cage is located. That way they can have plenty of space to play, but also be able to go into their cage where the litterbox, bed, ect are.

Some ferrets (like myself) opt for a play pen vs a cage. This gives them lots of floor place 24/7 without worrying if they’re going to knock something over or somehow get out into the rest of the home.

Free-roaming ferrets should be left to experienced owners. If this is your first ferret I highly recommend a cage or play pen for when they are unsupervised. Even I put them away when I run a quick errand.

What Do I Need to Look for in a Cage?

• Use a sturdy wire cage with plenty of ventilation
• Needs to have ample room for the ferret to move around. There are quite a few ferret cages available in the market today.
• There needs to be plenty of floor space. Ferrets aren’t really happy with steep ramps and small ledges. In my case, I did buy a 3-level cage BUT I ordered extra parts from the cage maker to double up the ledge to make their second floor width of the cage, instead of just being a ledge.
• The cage door should be large enough for a litter pan to enter and for cleaning.
• Needs to have a strong latch and escape proof. My first temporary cage was a “gerbil” cage. He escaped within an hour because the latches weren’t strong enough and he broke them chewing on them.
• If you use a wire bottom cage — place a piece of carpet for them to sit on. Their feet weren’t designed for bare wire floors.
• Make sure you have special places to sleep, go to the bathrrom and feeding. The litterbox should be as far away from their sleeping area as possible.
• Obviously, keep the cage in a cool, shaded and dry area. Needs to be away from direct sunlight and drafts.
• Think about getting a ramp for the front entrance of the cage, so that you’re ferret can exit and enter the cage easily. Especially if you have a ‘lifted’ cage (on wheels and a brace).

What to Avoid in Cages

• Don’t use small cages
• Ferrets need space vs vertical height. If you want a multiple story cage, think about ways to give them more floor space. Like I said in my example above, I ordered extra ledges with my cage so that I can make their floors the width of the cage. While leaving a ledge that leads to their hammock.
• Don’t use cedar or pine chips as litter or bedding because they can be toxic.
• DON’T USE AQUARIUMS. They are not sanitary and very unhealthy to ferrets. Ferrets require a properly ventilated home.
• Don’t place your cage text to the tv or stereo. Ferrets need a quiet home when they are feeling nervous, etc.
• Don’t put the cage in direct sunlight or in the draft of an air-conditioning vent or a room where it might be damp (such as the basement).

A cage serves as a den to your ferret. Make sure its a safe, private place for them.

There is only one ferret, but they come in a variety of colors and patterns. Their colors often change with the season, lighter in the winter vs. the summer, as well as with age. There are many varieties but here are some examples:

Colors

Albino: Red Eyes, Pink Nose & White Coat

Dark-Eyed White: White coat with burgundy eyes and a pink nose.

Champagne: Diluted chocolate or tan coat with a burgundy or brown eyes and a pink or beige nose.

Black: “Black on Black” – Black nose, eyes and coat.

Black sable: A blackish-brown coat with black eyes and a black nose

Chocolate: Warm milk-chocolate coat with brown eyes and a light brown or pink nose.

Cinnamon: Rich light reddish brown coat with a light to dark burgundy eyes and a brick colored nose.

Sable: Warm dark brown coat with black or brown eyes and a brown nose.

Patterns

Blaze: Any coat color except white. Blazer has a wide white stripe on the head with ruby – brown eyes, pink nose, white feet and a white bib.

Mitt: Can be any coat color except for white. Has white feet and a white bib.

Mutt: Any coat color except white and has mismatched roaning, dots, patterns & spots

Panda: Any coat color except for white and has a full white head with burgundy or ruby eyes and white feet or legs.

Point: Any coat color except for white and has a lighter body color with dark legs, tail a v-shaped mask.

Roan: Any coat color and has an even mixture of white to color hair.

Solid: Solid color from head to tail with a t-bar mask.

Standard: Lighter coat color than the tail and legs. Not to be confused with the point. Also has a full bandit-style mask.

Striped/Patterned: Dark eyes with a white coat color with a dark-colored strip down the back or light hairs over the body.

PLEASE IF YOU HAVE ANY PHOTOS OF THE ABOVE SEND THEM IN TO GROWINGUPFERRET@GMAIL.COM TO BE FEATURED IN THIS ARTICLE.

No matter how much you clean the cage, give them baths, you will never completely eliminate their unique odor.

You can use odor-eliminating items in order to help out. Use a spray on bedding, sleep sacks, blankets, ect. Just be sure that its safe for your little buddies. Also keeping the cage clean and washing bedding once a week, will help in reducing the odor.